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Fistful Of Power: Series 2 RED, BLUE and GREEN shadow variations


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#26 Rubberhammer

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 06:57 AM

Yeah, that was the dye I was told was used.

That's neat.

 

Did the dye discolor any of the paint apps on the crystal figs that you have?

I can't tell from your pic, man.


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#27 Mr.Monster

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 07:15 AM

It tints the paint a little but not as much as you'd think.
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#28 jkaris

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 12:16 PM

You'd probably have to find one in the little giveaway packages to verify it's authenticity. Outside of that, we really can't know.

I'd also say that if these were Shadows that were dyed, they would be really dark because of the original dark grey color of the figures, even if the RIT made it all the way through.

The died Crystal ones would, as you've already noticed, have dye residue on the paint.

Also, I've toyed around with dying M.U.S.C.L.E.s and the dye always fades as it disperses through the plastic.
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#29 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 12:37 PM

Yeah, it is definitely the Crystal ones that are dyed. 

 

I've found lots of youtube videos on dying clear plastic with RIT.  Not action figures specifically but all types of plastic -- rubber, vinyl, PVC, and ABS (the type of plastic of Lego as well as 3D printing).  The dye will not affect any paint on the object.  

 

Apparently dying plastic is big with RC enthusiasts as well as the cosplay folks (dying glasses or helmets).  

 

You can also use RIT to dye the soles of your shoes if they are a translucent plastic.  

 

I don't have any Crystal FoP, but I don't doubt that these are simply customs made by RIT dye.  

 

If someone wants to send me some Crystal FoP,  I will buy the dye and experiment.  

 

As far as MUSCLE, I bet it would be hard to turn a flesh-tone to color since they already contain dye.  

 

The exception would be black.  I bet you could turn a MUSCLE black.  If it doesn't want to take the dye, add heat.  Add heat and time.  

 

Also, it has been suggested when dying rubber to add just a bit of acetone.  


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#30 Rubberhammer

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:12 PM

I soaked a muscle fig in acetone, for about a week once, just to see how it would affect an ink stain, and it made the fig pretty rigid.
I don't know how adding heat might affect it.

Edited by Rubberhammer, 11 January 2015 - 01:13 PM.

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#31 Jesse

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:51 PM

Yeah, it is definitely the Crystal ones that are dyed. 
 
I've found lots of youtube videos on dying clear plastic with RIT.  Not action figures specifically but all types of plastic -- rubber, vinyl, PVC, and ABS (the type of plastic of Lego as well as 3D printing).  The dye will not affect any paint on the object.  


Interesting how the paint stays intact... if these are made by someone they really seen trouble clearing all the paint and adding the numbers since mine doesnt have any paint besides the numbers wich match the shadows not cristals. Also it seems like a horrible waste of series 2 figures.

Just wanted to mention this, the guy i bought these from said he got them from normal series 2 5-packs(impossible id say but decided not to argue with him) I still dont think hes the one who dyed these cause i dont think he does any customs/paint jobs, he just happened to have some FoP.


Also, Mr.Monster do your coloured shadows have numbers and if do do they match the shadow or cristal ones?
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#32 jkaris

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:54 PM

Just wanted to mention this, the guy i bought these from said he got them from normal series 2 5-packs(impossible id say but decided not to argue with him) I still dont think hes the one who dyed these cause i dont think he does any customs/paint jobs, he just happened to have some FoP.

What country is he in? Each country seems to have had varying releases.
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#33 Jesse

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:56 PM

U.S... suppose he bought his online cause i dont think s2 was sold in the stores there ever
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#34 Mr.Monster

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 02:09 PM

The dyed figures with no paint have shadow numbers. The ones with paint have crystal numbers
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#35 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 02:29 PM

I realized I already had some black RIT here at the house.  I boiled up some water, added the dye and threw a bunch of different figures in it.  I will have some before and after pics soon -- I am letting them soak for awhile.  I do have to tell you this one preliminary finding....  

 

As I mentioned I do not have any FoP -- but the two figure types that are probably most similar took the black dye immediately -- in like 30 seconds or less.  

 

These were a translucent Marvel Handful of Heroes and a translucent Mutant Mania by Moose.  

 

They both turned black super fast.  

 

I can imagine that if these two had been clear, they would have taken a colored dye just as quickly.  

 

Everything else is either a harder plastic or an opaque plastic -- or both -- and they have not yet turned black.  


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#36 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 02:47 PM

Here's the stuff I put in black RIT dye (see photo).

 

20 minutes in:

 

The MUSCLE has taken the dye quite well.  It is solid black.  

As mentioned earlier, the HoH and the Mutant Mania have taken the dye very well.  Solid black.  

The translucent and the opaque Trash Pack have taken the dye very well, though it has also stained the paint apps.

The Mega Blok (the green Chompy figure) is nice and black, though the paint app are quite stained.  

 

The hard plastic items (Gogos, Lego minifigure, and hard plastic Blip toys) have NOT taken the dye.  

 

I also added a red and a blue Minikin (not in photo) which have NOT entirely taken the dye.  

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Edited by steverotters, 11 January 2015 - 02:57 PM.

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#37 Jesse

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 02:58 PM

I can only see the before pic

Edited by Jesse, 11 January 2015 - 03:03 PM.

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#38 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 03:02 PM

I'm going to let them soak 1 hour. Then take a picture.   I suppose I should also mention that I boiled the water -- transferred it to a cup -- and then added the dye and figs.  So, they have not been constantly in hot water.  The water is completely cold now.  


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#39 TheRiddler

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 03:32 PM

Didnt RIT stop using the good stuff in their dyes a few years ago or something? I thought I read that here a long while ago


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#40 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 03:35 PM

After picture.  

One hour in black RIT dye that started boiling hot and cooled to room-temp.  

I rinsed them and also scrubbed each one with all purpose cleaner. 

 

The top three are solidly black -- except the eyes on the MM which are stained.  I guess the next step with these is to cut them open.  

 

The hard plastic toys did not take the dye -- except for staining their paint apps.  

 

The minikins are the only ones that look partially dyed.  I bet these would take if left longer on a higher temp.  

 

The only other one that I haven't mentioned is the Minecraft figure.  It is the same plastic as MUSCLE and it took the dye really well -- except you can see where the glue is that holds the two pieces of the figure together.  Where the glue is did not take the dye at all (not even partially like the paint apps).  

 

I should also mention that this is RIT dye specifically intended for fabric.  It does not indicate anywhere on the packaging that it should be used on plastic.  I have seen through youtube videos that there is another RIT dye that has a greater range of uses including -- marked right on the box -- good for plastics.  

 

I might get some more types of dye and more colors and continue experimenting.  

 

What do you guys think? 

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#41 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 03:56 PM

I gotta say the MUSCLE, the MM, and the HoH look quite nice.  The black is solid and very dark.  There are no fades, blotches, or inconsistencies.  The dye looks way better than anything that could have been done with paint.  Also there is no rub-off or smearing whatsoever to the touch, or by rubbing against paper.  

 

Regardless, I'm cutting them open to show the depth (or lack thereof) of the dye.  

 

Can I get some rep-points for this please?  

 

Destroying toys in the name of science :)

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Edited by steverotters, 11 January 2015 - 04:13 PM.

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#42 jkaris

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 06:01 PM

They look nice and shiny now but in a few weeks, the ink will have leeched in and the outside will look really faded.
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#43 Rubberhammer

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 06:49 PM

@ Steverotters

If you are going to get some more dye, I have a bunch of spare FoP shadows.

If you would like to see if you could color them, just PM me your address, and I will send you some. I only have one spare crystal, but I will send it too.

I am really curious as to wether or not you could color a shadow.

Edited by Rubberhammer, 11 January 2015 - 06:52 PM.

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#44 steverotters

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 07:19 PM

@jkaris

That sounds likely.  I rubber-banded the pieces to a different MUSCLE and HoH to see if the dye would leach into them.  

 

@rubberhammer

Sure thing.  I think there is a slight possibility that you could bleach the color out of the FoP shadows.  Slight possibility. I've found websites where people say they bleach the yellow out of old plastics restoring them to white or clear.  

 

I've read a little more about dying plastics and the tricks seem to be maintaining a temperature above 200 degrees and adding 30% acetate for hard plastics.  

 

I'll post about any new experiments in a separate thread.  


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#45 TheRiddler

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 07:28 PM

I had a Clash of the titans pegasus that had yellowed  over 70% of the figure. I put it in a clear plastic bin filled with peroxide and put a fluoroscent light over it. I left it there for 24 hours and afterwards it looked brand new...i really wish i had the pics of that still! But it is a great way to turn yellow plastic back to white!

 

here someone did the same thing...

 

http://forum.rebelscum.com/t1062577/

 

heres another

 

http://actionfigures...7?page=1#page=3


Edited by TheRiddler, 11 January 2015 - 07:36 PM.

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#46 Menis

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 05:42 PM

I had a Mantorr that was a crystalline deep blue - came with an issue of the kids magazine 'DMAG', so I'd say it was probably a legitimate promo item supplied by Moose rather than a dye job. Unfortunately, I traded it to someone about 9 years ago.


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#47 Rubberhammer

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 05:56 PM

I had a Mantorr that was a crystalline deep blue - came with an issue of the kids magazine 'DMAG', so I'd say it was probably a legitimate promo item supplied by Moose rather than a dye job. Unfortunately, I traded it to someone about 9 years ago.

Yes, all the common, series 1 figs had a blue crystal version, as well as a repaint version.

It's the series 2 figs that are causing the controversy here.
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#48 Mr.Monster

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 05:02 PM

I knew I had a couple series 2, here's one that I found

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#49 EnigmaGamer

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 08:07 PM

I knew I had a couple series 2, here's one that I found

nice :)


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#50 trumanshower

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 12:46 AM

i don't know their origin and their process, but i hope they are customs. Otherwise i will have to RE-DO THE ULTIMATE FOP CHECKLIST !!!  lol

 

i don't remind to have seen a topic with those guys in the past years.


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