10 replies to this topic

[Soupie]

If kinkeshi and MUSCLEs are stored together, will kinkeshi rubber melt MUSCLE plastic?

[Soupie]

Anybody else have any experience with storing MUSCLEs and Kinkeshi together?

I'd hate to ruin any MUSCLEs.

[Ridureyu]

I don't think that Kinkeshi are made from the right kind of rubber for melting to occur, unless they're pressed together under enormous pressure for a period of time.

The worst kind of rubber for plastic is the kind that usually comes with those sticky hands and other similar stuff.

Edited by Ridureyu, 28 January 2006 - 07:52 PM.

[gilgar]

I haven't had and problems with kinkeshi melting MUSCLE plastic but then I haven't left them together for any long period of time however I would expect no problems.

Kinkeshi melt plastics that are hard and brittle; the kind that break and splinter. I had several displayed in front of some hot wheels in plastic cases, some the cases that came with the 100% Hot Wheels and some I bought at a local hobby shop. There were indentions in a couple of places where the kinkeshi heads & arms had contacted the little cases. Luckily I didn't lean them against the cases.

I have many on the containers that bulk CDR's come in--no problems there but then they are a softer, somewhat pliable, plastic. Also some on Blister packs for some die cast cars, no problem.

There's a little more info in this thread: Kinkeshi melt hard plastic!!, What the hell?

It's not just kinkeshi either, at work I have one of those little smily faces whose eyes pop out when you squish them. It's been sitting on top of my monitor for a few months and melted the plastic of the monitor--so the toy must be of a similar rubber/plastic as kinkeshi.

[gilgar]

Hey found a doll article about the "melt marks". It says the melting is caused by acetone leaching which makes sense since acetone melts the hell out of hard plastic-try putting some on a CD jewel case. I have used acetone to remove paint, markers (even supposedly permanent ones) and made the mistake of using it to remove some marker off a CD case once. Acetone is also great from removing tampos from hot wheels (duh, it melts the plastic tampos off) It also removes crappy paint jobs but doesn't damage the original paint but if you get it on the plastic wheels of the cars--kiss 'em goodbye, they melt.

A Note about Melt Marks 
Many dolls may be found with melt marks, typically at the shoulders and hips. These marks are caused by a chemical reaction between Sindy's hard plastic torso and her soft vinyl arms and legs. Acetone slowly leaches from the vinyl and melts the hard plastic. If vinyl and hard plastic are left in contact for a long time (typically years) melted areas will develop where the two materials touch. These marks are not a result of abuse -- dolls which have never been removed from their original packaging can carry these marks.

This is not a problem confined to Sindy. Many dolls and other toys also suffer from melt marks. If the marks are not too large, they can be removed or minimized with polishing. Severe melting which prevents the joints from moving can be gently pried apart and the melted area cut off with nail scissors.

In the case of kinkeshi and some plastics, it does not take years but weeks or possibly less time. So I wouldn't risk leaving the kinkeshi with your MUSCLEs for any long periods of time Soup just to be safe.

Here's another article that mentions it plus has tips on: Removing Melt Marks

Ok, last one (I swear) This has a solution to prevent "melt marks" that should work for those with a Colosseum--wax paper--It's a huge article so here's the relevent section:

Aside from the overpowering smell of flexible plastic which wafts from the box when it's first opened, Dragon's heavy reliance on flexible plastics could potentially have even more unpleasant surprises further down the road. I don't mean to be alarmist, but based on experiences others have had as well as my own, flexible plastics left in contact with hard plastics (like styrene) may produce melt marks, remove paint, or cause discoloration. Flexible plastics are inherently less stable than hard plastics. Plasticizers which make plastic flexible may gradually leach out and react with other plastics. This may not happen at all, or perhaps happen over a period of years, or months (Dragon boots on Kubelwagen floorboard, KAR-98 in figure's hands), or perhaps even within days (Cool Girl's sunglasses). Unfortunately, the technology to prevent this doesn't seem to have improved since the days when Marx horses were regularly marred by their flexible plastic saddles. This isn't a widespread problem and it doesn't appear to happen most of the time, but if you care, it's wise to be cautious and check periodically-- I put wax paper between the boots and the Kubelwagen floorboard after I first noticed this problem.

Edited by gilgar, 28 January 2006 - 10:33 PM.

[Soupie]

So I wouldn't risk leaving the kinkeshi with your MUSCLEs for any long periods of time Soup just to be safe.

Yeah, I think that's good advice. Thanks for the info.

[lordofallkobuns]

Granted, I only have three kinkeshi, but I store them with my M.U.S.C.L.E.s, and nothing's happened.

[Edmasta]

Are Kinkeshi in sealed baggies ok to be stored with Muscle?

Edited by Edmasta, 21 April 2016 - 07:38 AM.

[ironmask]

Are Kinkeshi in sealed baggies ok to be stored with Muscle?

As long as they are in sealed bags, I haven't had any problems with storing them like that.

[Edmasta]

As long as they are in sealed bags, I haven't had any problems with storing them like that.

Yea they are in sealed baggies but I'm buying a new box tomorrow now don't want to risk it.