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Custom Callenge # 2


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#26 Articulationnut

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 05:52 PM

Utterly fantastic Blitzwulf !

It almost has a ..."Sigma Six" feel to its design. The paint job and the accessories all just scream "win". The only thing i might change is the transition from the extremities to the actual joints (making it smoother so the joints arent so obvious).

But then again if you did that it might not have the same feel.

Awesome work! THATS an action figure B)

Edited by Articulationnut, 30 April 2009 - 05:55 PM.

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#27 Blitzwulf

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:13 PM

Wow! Thanks for all the great comments guys! It really makes it worth the effort, and it just adds more fuel to the fire :D

@ Ghost Lion : Thanks a lot bro, and I shouldn't say anything, but I've got you in mind already on my next custom ;)

@ Jkaris : Thanks! I really appreciate it!

@ CCVegita : Thanks man, tighter is almost always better :D

@ Dankingery : I agree 100%. The more people share ideas, and artistic expression, the more it benefits us all. The fanart challenges have been teasing me to even start drawing again, something I haven't given much thought in a very long time. And, you are right, all of the entries so far are really well done, I have a feeling we haven't seen them all either.

@ TGB : Haven't tried the krylon paint yet, is it as tough as I've heard? I think the issue I'm having is friction, The paint just wouldn't hold up to the posing. I probably should have sanded the revoltech joints with a medium grit, and added a second coat of clear before assembly. I think that might have made a big difference. Thanks for the tip, and the great comments! Your work kicks total ass.

@ Articulationnut : Thanks a ton, man! I wish you had seen the figure when the paint was still on the joints, they were much better camoflaged. I do know what you mean about the transition though, but I'm afraid the tolerances are as close as I could get them without recasting the parts and starting from scratch. In the extremities, the joints are touching each other end-to-end, and the stems are as short as I could go while still retaining stability. Once I can teach myself how to mold, and cast parts, I hope to be able to make those joints much less visible. The only thing I really regret is not making a flying stand, and base, time just wouldn't allow, but also, it's never too late!
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#28 THEGODBEAST

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:44 PM

I think if you sprayed it w/ Fusion, then put a tiny bit of vasoline on them or dip/wipe a little WD40 on them that would keep the paint and allow a little rotation w/o paint rubbing/chipping friction. ;)

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#29 dankingery

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 08:00 PM

wouldn't wd40 react with the paint? a good lubricant that doesn't screw with the paints is vegetable oil.
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#30 imperfecz

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:08 PM

Yeah the wd40 would seem to me to be a bad thing with the paint but vegetable oil would attract dirt & cause scratching as well right? Anybody ever tried graphite? But the fusion paint should help just keep it light. After it cures well move it around a bit then fill in chips/scrapes whatever with a sharpie! When all is said & done fog this sucker with Krylon Matte Finish & if gloss is desired go back & brush in all but joint areas with some Minwax Polycrylic.

So guys can we have a section in the customs area where we can organize different threads to discuss problem solving ideas & share techniques for those who would want to participate or whatever? Or does that exist & my lazy ;) hasn't bothered to look?
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#31 Blitzwulf

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:59 PM

I think if you sprayed it w/ Fusion, then put a tiny bit of vasoline on them or dip/wipe a little WD40 on them that would keep the paint and allow a little rotation w/o paint rubbing/chipping friction. ;)

TGB


Well, the funny thing is that it's a double edged sword because the friction that's rubbing the paint off is also helping to keep the form posed. I think lubricant would equal crumbling disaster, especially if it made it's way up onto the stems. My theory is that if the parts were cast in a harder plastic, I could then machine the holes for the stems for a tighter fit, but still allow full rotation, without having them want to slip out of there respective holes.
The revo joint stems are cast with a knurled surface, I thought that was pretty neat. Ultimately, with this system, you could have a completely customizable line of figures, capable of interchanging many parts. Legobeasts, so to speak. The tricky part, I think, is casting the actual joints themselves (not the revlotech ones, something in two parts, more like the ones made by Hobby Base. ) They have a more simplistic design (the two halves are pinned together with a thin piece of plastic), and they don't have the ratchet effect. I used those for the wings. At a glance, do you think it's possible to recast those?
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#32 THEGODBEAST

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 11:46 PM

I think if you sprayed it w/ Fusion, then put a tiny bit of vasoline on them or dip/wipe a little WD40 on them that would keep the paint and allow a little rotation w/o paint rubbing/chipping friction. ;)

TGB


Well, the funny thing is that it's a double edged sword because the friction that's rubbing the paint off is also helping to keep the form posed. I think lubricant would equal crumbling disaster, especially if it made it's way up onto the stems. My theory is that if the parts were cast in a harder plastic, I could then machine the holes for the stems for a tighter fit, but still allow full rotation, without having them want to slip out of there respective holes.
The revo joint stems are cast with a knurled surface, I thought that was pretty neat. Ultimately, with this system, you could have a completely customizable line of figures, capable of interchanging many parts. Legobeasts, so to speak. The tricky part, I think, is casting the actual joints themselves (not the revlotech ones, something in two parts, more like the ones made by Hobby Base. ) They have a more simplistic design (the two halves are pinned together with a thin piece of plastic), and they don't have the ratchet effect. I used those for the wings. At a glance, do you think it's possible to recast those?



Ya, I can pretty much mold or cast anything. I am only limited to size (that being an item over 14-15" tall.

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#33 Donkeykid77

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:35 AM

That's one big bad bat! Great work blitzwulf!
If this figure ever get's molded, count me in! :)

:( DK77
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#34 THEGODBEAST

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 12:56 PM

So did I miss something? Were was the cut off? When is the voting?
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