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#26 grimerslimer

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Posted 13 August 2006 - 05:23 PM

Bump for some new guys...... :lol:

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#27 gunmonkey357

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 04:46 PM

Thanks.
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#28 Personality #9

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 08:36 PM

I'm gonna pin this topic as it seems to get buried and then get hot. That way it'll always be near the top when/if anyone has any questions and/or advice. :D
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#29 grimerslimer

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Posted 10 December 2006 - 08:28 PM

Bumpppitty bump! :)

Ya, I know it's pinned, but what the hell.

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#30 Czarcher

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:08 PM

Whats up y'all. I was thinking of doing some customs,and I have some ideas on what products work best from this thread.But can anyone give any sight as to how the kitbashing process goes? Like do you need to remove paint from a beast before you start re-painting? Whats the best/easiest way to chop heads off? :rolleyes: Some basic skill tips would be very much apreciated.
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#31 WhiteLeo

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:57 PM

For me, I just paint over the exsisting colors. I never wanted to take the time and remove the original paint. When I do chopping of any type I size up everthing, you want to make sure that when you cut the head, arms, feet that they will line up. The plastic is really easy to cut through, just have a good exacto knife.

Just be careful I have cut my fingers too many times! Hahaha Talk about blood, sweet and tears! :rolleyes:

That's about it.

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#32 Czarcher

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 10:07 PM

For me, I just paint over the exsisting colors. I never wanted to take the time and remove the original paint. When I do chopping of any type I size up everthing, you want to make sure that when you cut the head, arms, feet that they will line up. The plastic is really easy to cut through, just have a good exacto knife.

Just be careful I have cut my fingers too many times! Hahaha Talk about blood, sweet and tears! :o

That's about it.

WhiteLeo

Cool ! Thanks for the tips Leo ! :rolleyes:
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#33 Czarcher

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 10:07 AM

Can anyone tell me what the best product to use to protect the paints from peeling off? I'm done with my 1st custom,and I don't want to jack up the paint. :wacko:
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#34 ironmask

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 05:40 AM

Can anybody tell me what the most efficient, and durable pouring plastic is?
I use epoxy resin, and polyester resin... And I hate them.
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#35 ironmask

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 02:23 PM

I feel your pain, I've looked forever for one that would actually work good, the ones I found are good for the parents, but I want a younger look for the little chimp! :o


what fig are you using as the base? i used a giant sized incredible hulk fig that i got on clearance from kb toys for mine.


I was going to use a Swamp Thing figure.....It looked AWESOME, but of course it melted into a puddle of ooooooze now! :huh:

I usually bake the sculpy on the BB figs in the oven, I just use a low temp for a few minutes at a time and have never had a problem....I guess the Swamp Thing just couldn't handle it!


grimey


You can also boil sculpey, onto plastic figures. The heat from the water will harden the clay... If you're making molds of it though, you want to score the plastic... Otherwise, you're going to have to peel the sculpey bits out of your mold.
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#36 tojoro

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Posted 05 July 2008 - 05:46 PM

Hi all,
Pardon the "noob" questions, but I'm a noob, so here goes:
Reading through this thread, I noticed that Koppenschevelle and Godbeast both agree on water based acrylics.
Will this type of paint work on the soft rubber MIMP are made from?
Are Mini Boglins made from the same material?
As the MB resemble gargoyles to me, I was thinking of painting them a flat stone gray. I was also thinking of using a darker paint on my MIMP to define the sculpts, for example, if I have a hunchback in olive green, using a darker green to accent eyes, mouth, etc.
Lastly, I found it odd that the Ogre from series 1 of MIMP was armed with a club, but the Ogre was missing his, and Triton was without his trident. How would a novice craft suitable weaponry to arm his little rubber guys?
Just something I've been thinking of doing, but I don't want to mess them up.
Thanks for any help and input.

Tom
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#37 ironmask

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Posted 18 March 2009 - 11:11 PM

Question for Marty, and anybody else who may be into casting as well...
What is your preferred brand of plastic to use for casting?
I've been messing around with a couple of different brands, and am not very happy with the outcome.
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#38 ironmask

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Posted 27 March 2009 - 07:43 AM

Also, if anybody could help point me in the right direction, with some "How-to's" on injection molding....
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#39 TheRiddler

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 04:03 PM

Can anyone tell me the best type of paint to use for repainting or custom painting figures like M.U.S.C.L.E, MIMP,Snailiens etc..Thanks!
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#40 ironmask

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 04:02 PM

Does anybody here cast multiple pieces on trees/frames? If so, any tips?
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#41 Ridureyu

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 02:19 PM

EXTREMELY BASIC CUSTOMS QUESTIONS for kitbashes. If I wanted to cut up a few MUSCLEs and swap some pieces (in a similar manner to the Frankenstein bootlegs), what would be the best...


A: Best cutting tool? X-Acto Knife? Nail clippers? Rusty hacksaw? My aunt's sharp wit?

B: Best glue/adhesive? Gorilla glue? Super glue? Elmer's glue? Spittle?
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#42 ironmask

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 02:33 PM

I prefer a double edged razor, for how thin it is; double edged razors are less wedge-like than single edges or boxcutter blades...
And most krazy glue, epoxy or superglue will hold, as long as you score the cut surfaces properly.
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#43 Ridureyu

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 03:51 PM

Score the cut surfaces properly? I assume that you should try to keep it smooth if possible.
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#44 ironmask

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 03:56 PM

If you lightly score the cut surfaces, it'll actually give the glue something to grip to.
I find, that if I glue a smooth surface, sometimes the pieces want to slide around, or will snap off if accidentally dropped.
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#45 oOMoSOo

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 10:09 AM

Question for Marty, and anybody else who may be into casting as well...
What is your preferred brand of plastic to use for casting?
I've been messing around with a couple of different brands, and am not very happy with the outcome.

I use a urethane plastic from smoothon: smooth cast 325
Do you have a pressure pot?
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#46 Ericnilla

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:31 PM

I use this rubber

http://www.shop.bric...-PtFlex70U2.htm
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#47 ironmask

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 08:50 AM

I do not have a pressure pot.
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#48 oOMoSOo

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:05 AM

I do not have a pressure pot.

They are pretty easy to modify for casting purposes, I reccommend getting the one Harbor Freight carries it runs about $80 and $15 in materials to modify it. You will need an air-compressor as well.
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#49 ironmask

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:39 AM

They are pretty easy to modify for casting purposes, I reccommend getting the one Harbor Freight carries it runs about $80 and $15 in materials to modify it. You will need an air-compressor as well.



What end will this help me acheive?
(I do really appreciate the tips, by the way!)
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#50 Ericnilla

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 12:30 AM

yeah i needed the pressure pot, it helps with the air bubbles quite a bit. Also if you do any transparent castings you WILL need it to get a clear figure, otherwise there will be tiny bubbles all over inside.


i went the same way with the harbor freight pot.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html

and they have a cheap air compressor too as well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html
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