13 replies to this topic

[OneTallPonderosa]

After years of seeing all the great work people have churned out custom painting M.U.S.C.L.E. and other figures, I finally decided to give it a go with some of my spares.

 

Not top notch work by any stretch, but a few turned out pretty decent.

 

Any input to improve my technique or results  appreciated!

 

Also, it seems the acrylic paints tend to come off pretty easy.  So far I have not yet coated these with anything.  I am going to try some Krylon acrylic coating to see if that helps, but if anyone has any suggestions I am all ears.  I really would like the paint to be a little more durable.

 

 

Attached Files

•  MUS 003B.JPG   47.92K   20 downloads
•  MUS 003C.JPG   47.72K   33 downloads
•  MUS GROUP B.JPG   46.22K   29 downloads

[steverotters]

Those look amazing!

 

The most durable paints that you can get in the US appropriate for rubber figures are ACRL by Model Masters and the acrylics from Testors.  DO NOT get enamels by either brand.  You probably already know this.  I do not have experience with gloss coating with Krylon, but I am sure someone will advise. 

 

Your painting technique really is great!  One thing you might want to do is take an x-acto and trim the flashings before you start painting.  Also, you can put the figures in near-boiling water to correct warps.  But if you think flashings and warps add character, then, well, don't. 

 

Great work again on the painting!  Can't wait to see more!

Edited by steverotters, 06 February 2016 - 09:57 PM.

[cloning007]

awesome job, they look great, I always love seeing what peoples interpretation of what the figures look like. since we never had any idea as kids.

[OneTallPonderosa]

Thanks for the advice on the warping, I will certainly start using this technique.  Do they have to be in the water for long, or just very briefly?

 

And yeah, I really should trim the mold marks.  I have on a figure or two that I painted, but mostly I tend to just dive in without proper prepping and halfway through I get really annoyed at not having cleaned them up.

 

Thanks guys!

[Draznar]

Thanks for the advice on the warping, I will certainly start using this technique.  Do they have to be in the water for long, or just very briefly?

 

And yeah, I really should trim the mold marks.  I have on a figure or two that I painted, but mostly I tend to just dive in without proper prepping and halfway through I get really annoyed at not having cleaned them up.

 

Thanks guys!

 

Not long at all! I usually hold them in for like 30-or-so seconds, it just depends on the size of the figure/thickness of the plastic.

This an an awesome job well done!

[cloning007]

Those look amazing!

 

The most durable paints that you can get in the US appropriate for rubber figures are ACRL by Model Masters and the acrylics from Testors.  DO NOT get enamels by either brand.  You probably already know this.  I do not have experience with gloss coating with Krylon, but I am sure someone will advise. 

 

Your painting technique really is great!  One thing you might want to do is take an x-acto and trim the flashings before you start painting.  Also, you can put the figures in near-boiling water to correct warps.  But if you think flashings and warps add character, then, well, don't. 

 

Great work again on the painting!  Can't wait to see more!

 

 

does boiling water really work, I have a handful of figures that I want to try this on.

any other tips, should i set up some kind rig to hold them into shape? 

[TheRiddler]

does boiling water really work, I have a handful of figures that I want to try this on.

any other tips, should i set up some kind rig to hold them into shape? 

It works really well...just dip in hot water (I do right below boiling for 15 sec.) then shape with your hands (it will be hot) and run it under cold water while still shaping it....works 100% of the time i have used it!! 

[OneTallPonderosa]

Very cool, thanks for the details.

 

Now if I can just figure out the easiest way to deal with smoke/mold stench. 

 

I have found the long soaks in Simple Green completely eradicate even the worst smells, but then they smell even more strongly for weeks of sassafras instead! 

[OneTallPonderosa]

A few more recent ones.  I think I am getting a little better on technique, but I want to switch over and try some of the Testor or similar model specific acrylics.  The ones I am using I have real coverage issues in some colors.

 

Also I tried out the Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic coating and did not like the look.  I think it provides the protection but is far too glossy.  Any other ideas on a fixative/coating that would increase the durability of the paints?

 

Thanks.

Attached Files

•  MUS 004 A.JPG   58.32K   5 downloads
•  MUS 004 C.JPG   77.48K   4 downloads
•  MUS 004 D.JPG   70.38K   3 downloads

[OneTallPonderosa]

And another new dude.  Not really happy with how the grey turned out.  I probably will go back and try some dry brushing and maybe add some details.

 

Finally picked up some Testor acrylics so I am going to give those a try and see what results I get.

Attached Files

•  Hawk Dude A.JPG   44.42K   5 downloads
•  Hawk Dude B.JPG   44.3K   4 downloads

Edited by OneTallPonderosa, 28 February 2016 - 12:35 PM.

[OneTallPonderosa]

My newest painting endeavor.  Now I just need a few more Collared Lizards so I can increase my rainbow!

 

Feel free to help me acquire more & enter my contest at the same time: http://www.littlerub...howtopic=243119

 

 

Attached Files

•  FRILL A.JPG   81.66K   8 downloads

[EpicusFuror]

Use Krylon Satin Acrylic Clear. Gloss is only neccesary for something like a car finish. Don't spray it on like you would regular paint, it's a cumulative coating so you can do like 6 extremely thin coats or until you get the look you desire. I have used this technique on models for over 20 years.

[OneTallPonderosa]

Use Krylon Satin Acrylic Clear. Gloss is only neccesary for something like a car finish. Don't spray it on like you would regular paint, it's a cumulative coating so you can do like 6 extremely thin coats or until you get the look you desire. I have used this technique on models for over 20 years.

 

Awesome, thanks for the input.  I will have to check out the craft stores again and see if I can find that Acrylic Clear. 

 

Last time the only stuff I could find was all gloss, and it certainly does not look good on MUSCLES.

 

I did paint a few now with the TESTOR paints and I have the same issue with those.  They just look SOOO GLOSSY. I much prefer the final look of the normal acrylic paints, but they just don't adhere & cover nearly as well.  Maybe I should try some sort of primer.

[EpicusFuror]

They actually sell it at walmart too.